Timber Cladding
PRODUCT CATEGORIES
Whether you're looking to clad a new build, restore an old barn, or add some character to your space, the key to selecting the right timber cladding is understanding what's available and what will work for your project. We've been supplying cladding timber for over 25 years from our sawmill, and what we've learned is that the best way to work with our customers is to offer advice rather than trying to sell them the most expensive option....
Whether you're looking to clad a new build, restore an old barn, or add some character to your space, the key to selecting the right timber cladding is understanding what's available and what will work for your project. We've been supplying cladding timber for over 25 years from our sawmill, and what we've learned is that the best way to work with our customers is to offer advice rather than trying to sell them the most expensive option.
This is where it gets a bit technical, so bear with us. It is useful to understand the different profiles because it will affect the appearance and the weatherproofing of the timber.
Tongue and groove is probably the most well-known profile. They slot together with the tongue going into the groove, which provides a snug fit and weather protection. It can be used in vertical or horizontal format. It is probably the most commonly associated profile with traditional timber cladding. We also offer a V groove profile, where there is a chamfer that creates a shadow effect in the shape of a 'V' between the boards.
Featheredge and rebated featheredge are the traditional profiles used for barn cladding and agricultural buildings. The boards are cut on the diagonal so that they taper from thick to thin, then overlap them like tiles. The overlap needed for standard featheredge is about 35-50mm. Rebated featheredge has an additional rebate machined in. This allows the boards to sit flatter and means that you get better weather resistance with a slightly smaller overlap, about 25mm, though more is always better.
Shadow gap cladding is the modern alternative. The boards feature a machined rebate that produces a crisp horizontal shadow gap when fixed. It is excellent for modern buildings and extensions – very architectural, very clean lines. The boards are usually fixed using clips rather than being screwed.
Shiplap is similar to tongue and groove but with an overlapping rebate instead of a tongue. When shiplap is fixed horizontally, it produces those nice shadow lines along the length of the wall. It might be a little easier to fit than tongue and groove, though it does shed water nicely.
Board on board produces the most three-dimensional appearance. You fix the base layer of boards, then the second layer on top with gaps in between. You can play with the gap spacing to produce different shadow effects, hence its use by architects for feature walls.
Half lap is another profile with overlap – it's half way between shiplap and board on board in terms of how deep it looks.
Rain screen is designed for ventilated façades – i.e., there's a gap between the back of the cladding and the face of the building.
Channel siding has a concave profile between boards – it's a style commonly used in America but is catching on over here.
And then there's waney edge weatherboarding – it's about as old-fashioned as it gets.
They're boards cut directly from the tree with one square edge and one waney edge (with bark on).
They're supplied fresh sawn – you just overlap them plenty – 40-50mm is the minimum.
They split and check as they dry – but that's the whole point.
It's a rustic look – great for agricultural-style buildings.
Not all our profiles are suitable for both internal and external work – this is something that catches people out a bit.
For internal feature walls like living rooms, bedrooms, and home offices, you want to use kiln-dried timber. It's stable; it will not shrink much; and you can get a precise finish. Oak, ash, and larch are all good for this.
Larch/Douglas Fir – Most economical cladding. Twice as durable as pine. Naturally resistant with resin. Weathers to silver grey. Fresh sawn or kiln dried.
Oak – Best cladding choice. Will outlast everything. Fresh sawn, air dried, or kiln dried. More movement with fresh sawn, but worth it for the long life. Character builds up over the years.
Larch – Slow growth, dense timber. Kiln dried to 18% moisture. Best used internally. First or Character Grade.
Ash – Pale timber with strong grain. Tougher than it looks. Mid-range in price, between softwoods and oak. Not as readily available as some timber.
As we mill most of our own timber, we are able to offer custom lengths (there is an additional charge for set lengths over random), offer guidance on moisture content, and know how the timber will perform once it's been fitted. We are not just moving boxes of timber around!
Do you have 20 square metres to cover for a garden office or 200 square metres to cover for a barn conversion? We can help with all of it. Random lengths are between 1200mm and 3600mm; however, this will vary depending on the species and profile of the timber. If you want specific lengths for your job – for instance, you want everything to be 3000mm to minimise waste – then we can help with that too.
Have a look through the subcategories above to find the profile you want to use for your job, or give us a call on 01536 267107 if you want to discuss it with one of us.
